Workshop

[TehBorken]

Okay, continuing on...

The first 8ft of the underlayment is in place and screwed down securely.
(//vny!://discoverseattle.net/workshop/SAM_2578-800.jpg)


This gives you idea of the bench top thickness, alough there's still 1/4" of Masonite that goes on top. It's pretty solid.
(//vny!://discoverseattle.net/workshop/SAM_2580-800.jpg)


Thar she blows...the first 16ft of bench top complete with the Masonite cover piece. Notice how it comes right up to the bottom of the window ledge molding.
(//vny!://discoverseattle.net/workshop/SAM_2588-800.jpg)


The Masonite provides a nice, visually-neutral work surface that's resistant to most oils and paints. It's a hard-finish surface that's very smooth and durable, yet easy on the eyes.
(//vny!://discoverseattle.net/workshop/SAM_2590-800.jpg)


The basic bench, minus the backboard and drawers. The bench will also wrap around the wall to the right, which is where all the dust-making stuff will be (drill press, grinders, sanders, etc). I'll post the photos of that section later. There's also some paint and trim that'll be added to make it look nicer.
(//vny!://discoverseattle.net/workshop/SAM_2592-800.jpg)


This is one of the backboards being painted with 3 coats of matte grey floor paint. It's 3/4" plywood left over from ripping the 4x8 sheets.
I didn't really want to cover up the windows with a backboard but I know that it's only a matter of time until some piece of something goes whizzing off and breaks a window. The backboard isn't full-height so some daylight does still make it in the windows.
(//vny!://discoverseattle.net/workshop/SAM_2602-800.jpg)


Last pic in this series is a pull-out slider that holds a drill and misc drill accessories in some little bins. This runs on some extension sliders so it glides in and out smoothly. This turned out to be super-handy so I may add a couple more of these. 
(//vny!://discoverseattle.net/workshop/SAM_2654-800.jpg)

[kitten]

That is really beautiful.  You are doing an amazing job.  I love the colour of the paint you have used, and it looks like you have great light to work with.  The windows should give you plenty of light for your projects.

[TehBorken]

Thank you Kitten. As for colors, I opted for a neutral grey for most of it because it's a color that's easy on the eyes and has a low glare factor.

That is really beautiful.  You are doing an amazing job.  I love the colour of the paint you have used, and it looks like you have great light to work with.  The windows should give you plenty of light for your projects.

[TehBorken]

Alright, now we can get to some of the more interesting stuff. Well, interesting to me anyway.

This is actually something I'm slightly proud of: a custom "drill holster". It's made from a $2 PVC plastic pipe coupler. I just heated it with a heat gun until it was soft, then I shoved the drill into it and pressed it until it fit snugly. The alternative was a $20 drill hanger that was really pretty crappy. I like mine much better.
(//vny!://discoverseattle.net/workshop/SAM_2610-800.jpg)


Now the backboards are mounted to the wall and window sill. They're also joined in the center with a 1x4" strip screwed in from the front. Lots of room to mount stuff, as we'll see.
(//vny!://discoverseattle.net/workshop/SAM_2617-800.jpg)


A top shelf is mounted on the backboard giving us more room to store frequently used items (cans, wipers, etc). It also provides a good place to mount multiple swing-arm task lights. I'm big on lighting, especially for working on small, delicate stuff. You can never have too much light. The two power strips below are just about to be mounted to the backboard. You can also never have too many power outlets, lol.
(//vny!://discoverseattle.net/workshop/SAM_2624-800.jpg)


The power strips are mounted and the connecting cords are run through holes with the cords protected by more pipe couplers.
(//vny!://discoverseattle.net/workshop/SAM_2639-800.jpg)


A few tool racks, bins, and tool hangers are mounted to the backboard (with many more to come). And I can now use the bench to finish the bench. The yellow gun on the right is my trusty heat gun. A heat gun is used to quickly ruin things that are sensitive or delicate or expensive. Every shop should have one.
(//vny!://discoverseattle.net/workshop/SAM_2651-800.jpg)


And FINALLY I get to build some drawers. I didn't photograph the drawer building process, but I should have. These are 2'x2' drawers, 4" tall. They're on runners made of a slippery polypropylene material. I hate installing those sliding track things, they're such a PITA to do that I avoid them if I can. Also, doing it this way supports more weight than using drawer slides (and drawer slides cost ~$25 a pair, too).
(//vny!://discoverseattle.net/workshop/SAM_2676-800.jpg)


They look okay, but the next set will be a little nicer. The drawers cost about $50 or $60 to make, not too bad. They're nice and sturdy, slide well, and hold a ton of stuff. These don't show the handles (pulls) installed, but Ill post a shot of that later. I used some nice European-style drawer pulls that I had left over from about 20 years ago (really).
(//vny!://discoverseattle.net/workshop/SAM_2684cropped.JPG)

[TehBorken]

After a short break, we continue (try to contain your excitement, ladies!)

Every workbench needs a vise, right? So I transferred my trusty vise to the new bench. This vise is 30+ years old (maybe closer to 40 years old, now that I think about it).
(//vny!://discoverseattle.net/workshop/SAM_2698-800.jpg)


And I used some BABs (big-ass bolts) to secure it. Drilled right down through the 2x4 to attach it. That thing isn't gong anywhere.
(//vny!://discoverseattle.net/workshop/SAM_2700-800.jpg)

Now we start the second half of the bench along the west wall, a much easier build. This is where the grinder, drill press, etc will go. The back will have a gap meant for piping dust collection tubes up through it.
(//vny!://discoverseattle.net/workshop/SAM_2702-800.jpg)


Screw it in place and add a little bracing....
(//vny!://discoverseattle.net/workshop/SAM_2716-800.jpg)


The plywood top set on top but not screwed down. This one is cut a little shallow to allow for the dust-collection hoses I mentioned earlier. The plywood is bowed but that isn't unusual; it'll flatten out once it's screwed down.
(//vny!://discoverseattle.net/workshop/SAM_2703-800.jpg)


The open channel on the right is where the hoses and power cords will run, plumbed to a shop-vac that will sit under the table.
(//vny!://discoverseattle.net/workshop/SAM_2710-800.jpg)


I also built a nice deep drawer to hold stuff like my circular saw and other gear that's too big for a regular drawer. You can also see the drawer pulls installed on the top set of drawers.
(//vny!://discoverseattle.net/workshop/SAM_2717-800.jpg)

(//vny!://discoverseattle.net/workshop/SAM_2718-800.jpg)

Not done yet, but getting closer.

[DDD]

overkill GREAT JOB !  I like when things are done better than needed built to last.............word

[kitten]

Those handles are beautiful.  I'm curious to find out what kind of handles you will use for the rest of the drawers you will be building, in order to complement these that you have put in.  Perhaps black in a similar style?

[TehBorken]

Kitten, these are the handles I'm using. I have a whole bunch of them left over from an old, old project. I might paint them but until I get rid of them if I need a handle this is what I'll be using for the foreseeable future.   I may very well have a lifetime supply.  

(//vny!://discoverseattle.net/workshop/SAM_2935-800.jpg)


The west wall bench is ~90% done here and some of the tools moved over. The grinder in the left coner will eventually sit on a 20" lazy-susan turntable so two grinders can be mounted back-to-back (one with grinding wheels, one with buffing wheels).
(//vny!://discoverseattle.net/workshop/SAM_2938-800.jpg)


This shopvac is used for general cleanup with a wand on a 9-ft hose.
(//vny!://discoverseattle.net/workshop/SAM_2949-800.jpg)


...while this one is plumbed up to the various tools on top, as shown in the next picture.
(//vny!://discoverseattle.net/workshop/SAM_2950-800.jpg)


The collection hoses (and power cords) run up through the gap in the back and directly into the tool. This really cuts down on the dust.
(//vny!://discoverseattle.net/workshop/SAM_2954-800.jpg) (//vny!://discoverseattle.net/workshop/SAM_2959-800.jpg)



Here's a panorama of most of it.
(//vny!://discoverseattle.net/workshop/SAM_2948-800.jpg)





Plenty of light though the windows, too much to take a good picture facing south.
(//vny!://discoverseattle.net/workshop/SAM_2964-800.jpg)




I faced the bench fronts with some 1x4" hemlock strips . Hemlock has a subtle light grain that comes out nicely after a few coats of polish and sealer. The strip in front has 4 coats, the one on the right has two (so far). The photo kind of washes out the grain, it actually looks better/deeper than what you see here.

[kitten]

The workshop is amazing, TehBorken!  So beautiful, and you must have every tool known to man in there!  Just incredible.  I love how it looks, and you also have a gorgeous view out your window for while you are sitting there planning your next project.

[Russ]

Wow TB. That is built, as I like to put it, like a brick sh*thouse. Overbuilt. But I do the same, then you never have to fix it later on.


I like the thought you put into it, with the electrical plugs, and the space at the back of your L bench on the side for the dust hoses.


I am amazed your wife allowed you to put something like that into your house. Mine would kill me before even answering no. I need to redo my storage in my garages and carports. I refuse to admit I have to downsize my stuff. I need those three axles for a vehicle I dont have anymore.


I like all the lag bolts and screws to put it together. I hate nails, I prefer something that wont come loose over time.


That quickcrete or whatever its called under the legs is brilliant. REALLY good idea! Im going to use it, if you dont mind.

[P.C.]

Fabulous, Tehborken !  Super well done !


So what are you going to build first ?

[TehBorken]

I'm glad you like it, it was actually a lot of fun to build.

That quickcrete or whatever its called under the legs is brilliant. REALLY good idea! Im going to use it, if you dont mind.

By all means.

[TehBorken]

Thank you.

As for what I'm going to do, I'm planning on doing some light woodworking and also some plastic fabrication using a material called Kydex (//vny!s://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=Kydex) (and a similar material called "Holstex").

Basically you heat up the plastic sheet and then pressure form it over an object so it molds to the item and takes on its shape. It's used a lot to make pistol holsters and knife sheaths.

I'm going to use it to make a specific type of holster. There are a lot of people using Kydex to make holsters and stuff, but no one makes a "Level 2" style holster, which is what I want.

A Level 2 holster has a safety interlock that mechanically locks the gun into the holster so that you have to depress a button or other latch to release the gun. Here's an example of a Level 2 rig (//vny!://theseegroup.com/blle2selibef.html). Notice the latch in the middle of the holster...if it's not depressed then the gun can't be pulled from the holster.

I've been making prototypes (and building the actual Kydex press) so I'm getting ready to actually do some test runs. I'll post pics if anyone's interested.

Fabulous, Tehborken !  Super well done !


So what are you going to build first ?

[Russ]

Why would you want that on a holster? Wouldn't it be easier to have a band at the top with something like a button? So you release it once and it's off until you resecure it?

[TehBorken]

The idea behind an L2 holster is to prevent someone from grabbing your sidearm out of your holster. A simple snap or band is very easy to undo and lets someone steal or remove your gun pretty easily. Suddenly someone else has your gun, and that has "bad ending" written all over it.

FYI, most of the simple bands/snaps that you see on police holsters are fake; that is, they don't actually undo anything. They're often strictly cosmetic *OR* they undo in a different manner than it appears they do (like with a hidden catch or snap from the opposite side). This is to keep someone from grabbing the officer's gun- someone who tries to get the gun will be fumbling with the fake strap, giving the officer time to act.

The way one of my (store bought) L2 holsters works is that as you fit the gun down into the holster, a catch automatically locks the gun so you don't have to manually reengage it. You just slide it in and *click* it's locked in place. This is what I want to replicate (and actually improve on a bit).

The only problem is that L2 holsters usually need to be made to fit a specific firearm; one made for a Glock won't fit a Smith & Wesson and vice versa. That's why a kydex press is needed, so you can make one from a particular sample gun or a specific personal sidearm.

Why would you want that on a holster? Wouldn't it be easier to have a band at the top with something like a button? So you release it once and it's off until you resecure it?